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also for Gaddi tribe who are a semi-agriculture tribe & own large flocks of sheep & goats as the main source of wealth. They are better shepherds than farmers & one of the largest tribes of Himachal Pradesh.
Known for their simplicity & hard work, they keep to themselves.
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They are a pure Hindu Tribe with Aryan features who are very firm with their faiths and beliefs, particularly for Lord Shiva.
Dhudu (धुड़ू) – the appellation of Shiva as they like to call.
धुड़ू played a distinct social role in the lives of Gaddis.
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Shiva was personalised into the beliefs & life of these pastoralists like nowhere else in South Asia. The existence of each without the other was not conceivable. One of the very famous folk songs "धुड़ू नचेया जटा जो खलारी ओ" depicts the relationship of Dhudu with his chelas
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Costumes - MEN
1. Chola - worn as an upper garment made of white coloured ‘patti’ of soft & thin wood tied around the waist by a cord called ‘Dora'. It remains loose above the waist & can be used to carry the essentials like food, small lambs.A Gaddi can carry up to 50Kgs load
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2. Dora - is tightened around the waist over Chola. It is a black coloured sturdy woollen cord up to 60mts in length for man. It is an extraordinary part of Gaddis’ dress worn by men, women & kids which probably used to give support to the waist and also keeps the person warm.
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3. Suthni - Traditional woollen churidar pyjama worn by men as a lower garment
4. Top - Woollen cap worn as a headdress. It has flaps on 2sides & a peak-like projection that represents the ‘Kailash Parvat’ of Lord Shiva. The front of the cap is adorned with dried flowers.
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5. Mochrus - Laceless shoes made of crude leather. These are very sturdy which lasts for a long and can bear the rugged nomadic journeys of Gaddis.
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Costumes – WOMEN
Gaddi women are known for their rosy complexion, graceful sharp features & are considered to be the most beautiful among the Pahari women. They have a unique identity with their costumes that are developed from hand-woven cotton cloth with block printing.
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1. Luanchari - An upper garment that is frock shaped full-length dress made out of 15-20mts cotton cloth with contrast coloured yoke finished with frills, laces and bias bindings at the edges.
2. Dora - Wollen black cord of 45-50mts & serves the same function as for men
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3. Suthan - Cotton churidar pyjami loose at the thighs and fitted below the knee level and has some horizontal folds referred to as chooris at the ankle level, worn as a lower garment
4. Kurti - Cotton collared shirt with a front placket which is worn under Luanchari
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5. Ghundu or chadru - Traditional dupatta draped over the head that falls over the shoulders & to the back. It is 2-2.5 mts long coloured muslin with finished edges with frills & laces
6. Footwear - made of crude leather but lighter in weight & designed with handicraft work
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TRADITIONAL ORNAMENTS
Gaddis are very fond of wearing ornaments. Silver is considered sacred by Gaddis, therefore their jewellery is mostly made of silver with mina work in specific designs and motifs.
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1. Chak or Chonk: It is conical shaped silver jewellery which is worn in the centre over the top of the head. It is considered as a symbol of being married
2. Clips: These are silver hair clips connected with silver string which falls over the braid.
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3. Fulli: Big sized round nose pin
4. Balu: It is a big nose ring made up of gold & has a diameter of 3-4 inches. The design has an elaborate network that is studded with semi-precious stones. It's worn on the left nostril by the brides & married women during festivals
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5. Chiri: Worn as a ‘mangtika’ is a big disc-shaped silver ornament with multicoloured mina work & has a no. of silver beads hanging around the disc
6. Chanderhar: Heavy neck jewellery made up of silver with mina work & has a group of chains attached with a triangular piece
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7. Gojru & Toke: Silver bracelets with narrow width worn as a pair
8. Pari: These are also silver pyjabe that make loud sounds while walking making the presence of a newlywed in the house
9. Jhumkas: These are bell-shaped hangings attached with studs worn as ear ornaments
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10. Phullu: Silver toe ornaments of different shapes and sizes
11. Dur: Gold earrings worn by MEN. Traditionally, it is compulsory for the groom to wear "dur" at the time of marriage
12. Chain: Made in silver or gold worn around the neck also worn by MEN
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CONCLUSION: Gaddi tribe is playing a significant role in preserving their heritage of festivals, costumes & ornaments. The clothing pattern of the Gaddi tribe is changing with the passage of time, yet Chola-Dora is being worn by the older & new generation in routine.
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Sources:
- Ritual, Performance & Transmission: The Gaddi Shepherds of Himachal Himalayas
- Traditional Costumes and Ornaments of the Gaddi tribe of HP
- Handicrafts heritage of Gaddi Tribe of HP
- Social, Cultural, and Economic History of Himachal Pradesh
#Thread Ends
